Sun, Sand, Sea, Surgery: Phuket’s Sex-Change Doctor


“I think that imagination is very important,” says Dr Sanguan Kunaporn, when reflecting on his life’s work. For some, the imagination is unleashed with a pen or a paintbrush. For Dr Sanguan, however, his creativity flows through the scalpel.

His meticulous surgical methods, finely honed after years of practice, have elevated Dr Sanguan from a general practitioner in rural Thailand to a world-renowned plastic surgeon in less than 20 years.

The Bangkok-born doctor arrived in Phuket 13 years ago to work at the government-run Vachira Hospital, where he performed countless reconstructive and cosmetic procedures. He now runs the clinic Phuket-plasticsurgery.com and performs operations at Phuket International Hospital (PIH).

Dr Sanguan forms a key part of the island’s drive to be a “health tourism hub”, where people come to Phuket for quality medical procedures at reasonable costs, then spend their days or weeks of recovery relaxing in paradise. Indeed, such is the demand for Dr Sanguan’s work that PIH does not need to market his services.

Many of his patients are from Western countries, some of whom are willing to endure the seven- to nine-month wait for Dr Sanguan’s highly sought after, male-to-female sexual reassignment surgery (SRS).

SRS is just one part of Dr Sanguan’s extensive plastic surgery work, but it’s undeniably the most fascinating. Even Dr Sanguan, who has performed some 500 SRS operations, remains slightly in awe of it. “It’s very amazing, very amazing,” he says. “I have given many lectures and presentations [about SRS] to groups of people, the community, other surgeons. I can see on everyone’s face that they think that it’s unbelievable.”

There are many professions in which one can claim to make an impact on another individual. There are few, however, where seven or eight hours of your hands-on work will forever change the course of a person’s life. As Dr Sanguan says, “Every case is interesting.”

While he can describe in graphic detail, without blinking, the two-phase procedure for creating a woman’s sexual organs from a man’s, Dr Sanguan holds a certain reverence for SRS. He doesn’t forget that his patients are real, breathing people, not subjects upon which he can refine his techniques.

“I call it the life-altering surgery,” he explains. “After surgery, the patients start a new chart of their life, in another sex role.”

Dr Sanguan sees his SRS work not as a way to trick nature but as a method to release an individual from the trap he’s been caged in all his life – that is, the wrong body, the wrong sex. This is what his patients tell him.

“Some patients of mine say that they really recall what they wanted to be since they were two or three years old,” he says. “They wanted to play with girls, to wear their mother’s clothes, to wear lipstick, paint their eyes – since childhood. This really surprised me.”

While Dr Sanguan is modest about his abilities, Internet web sites and chat rooms dedicated to transsexual issues are full of testimonials of his former patients, who expound on his particular skill in creating the female sexual organ.

“There are only a handful of doctors with his reputation for SRS, maybe 12 doctors in the world,” says American plastic surgeon Dr Harold M. Reed, who recently visited Phuket to observe Dr Sanguan’s work. “For most transsexual patients, the important thing is the depth of their [vaginal] wall – and his dissection of that space is very meticulous, very careful.”

Dr Sanguan is also well known for making sure that a key bundle of nerves in the male organ find their way, intact and functional, to the newly formed female organ. His mastery, many claim, is that it not only looks the part, but that it feels the part too.

While a functional organ is important, another crucial factor in the success of an SRS operation is the support of family and friends, Dr Sanguan says. Among most of his patients, that level of support is high. Amazingly high.

“Some patients come to Phuket with their mother,” he says. “Some patients come with their ex-wife. Some patients, they bring their present wife. Some patients come with the whole family – present wife and three kids. One patient of mine came with her son. At that time [before the operation], her son called her ‘mum’ already.”

It is clear that Dr Sanguan views his work as that of helping people. He cares about the outcome of his surgeries. He keeps in regular contact with many of his patients, following their recovery and new life after their return home. He’s mild-mannered and soft-spoken, yet he exudes a quiet confidence that would assure anyone about to undergo a major life change that they’re in good hands.

But he’s certainly no pushover. Unlike some plastic surgeons – the most famous examples being those who, in stages, largely removed the face of pop-star Michael Jackson – Dr Sanguan refuses to accept patients who seem to be harbouring “unreasonable expectations” about what surgery can do for them.

Among his SRS patients, all must pass certain criteria indicating that they are ready for the procedure. They’ve had extensive psychological evaluations, have had hormone treatments for at least one year, and have done a “real-life test” – that is, lived as a woman for 24 hours a day – for at least six months before undergoing the operation.

Though the 40-something doctor, an avid cyclist and beacon of calm, looks like a model of health and vitality, one wonders if, like the painter who experiments with self-portraits, he’s ever considered cosmetic surgery for himself.

Dr Sanguan laughs and says “never”, though he concedes that some of his colleagues have suggested that it might be time to consider hair transplants. “I say, maybe in a few years, but not right now. I’m ok with this.”

This is an edited version of an article I wrote for Phuket Magazine a while back. Some information may be out of date but Dr Sanguan is still here in Phuket and as busy as ever!

Wat Chalong - Phuket's Not-So-Silent Sanctuary

Wat Chalong's temple fair
The largest and liveliest temples on Phuket, Wat Chalong has been a centre of the local Buddhist community since its original construction in the early 1800s. Not exactly a peaceful place of contemplation, the main viharn (assembly hall) is thronged daily with worshippers and curious tourists, while the air is constantly crackling with the sound of firecrackers set off by those hoping to blast some good fortune their way.

Another hall houses the eerily realistic wax statue of the revered Luang Por Cham, a former abbot of many talents. He is credited with helping to quell the Chinese workers’ rebellion in 1876, and was also known as a great healer. The statues of two other former abbots, Luang Por Chaung and Luang Por Gluam, are also set in the building.
Fruity looking sugar snacks for sale at the fair
More recently, Wat Chalong was renovated and construction of a large chedi was completed in 2002 to house a sacred relic – a bone fragment of the Lord Buddha, brought from Sri Lanka in 1999. Called the Phramahathat Chedi, it stands more than 61 metres high and its large platform on the third storey offers a great lookout point over the surrounding area. The bone fragment, enclosed in glass, can also be viewed on this level.

Goat's heads in a bucket. We didn't ask why.
Later this month during Chinese New Year, which starts on January 23, the temple will be jammed with people flocking to the huge annual nine-day Wat Chalong fair that features food, live music and loads of food, handicrafts and odd stuff for sale.

Wat Chalong is on Luang Por Cham Road, about 8 km south of Phuket City off Chao Fa West Road.

Phuket Travel Nightmare Revisited

Simon had a fabulous Phuket trip - until he tried to leave
Phuket’s a strange place. As a writer, editor and witness to the weird happenings and rapid changes of this resort island over the years, I’m still amazed at the bewildering variety of things that go on here.

One news item that stands out in my memory is the Simon Burrowes story in early 2009.

A British citizen spends a few months holidaying in Phuket, enjoying a wonderful escape on the island: meeting the locals, doing some Muay Thai martial arts training, sampling the food, exploring the beaches and sights.

At one point during his Phuket trip, Simon emails a friend to say, “excelent [sic] out here. Haven't known happiness like this.”

All’s well until his final day, when Simon and a friend are about to board a flight back to the UK at Phuket International Airport. Simon’s passport comes under the scrutiny of the immigration officers.

It’s an older passport (UK passports are valid for 10 years), and, unusually, he appears shirtless in the photo. Simon later says that he was told by officials at the airport that the passport raised suspicions because it lacked a biometric chip, his alignment in the photograph did not look correct, and he appeared to be younger than 44 years old as written in the passport.

Incidentally, or not incidentally: Simon Burrowes is black.

Accounts of what transpire next diverge between Simon and the immigration officials, but Simon, who misses his flight and is unable to get help from his embassy to confirm his passport’s validity, is understandably agitated.

At some point he says or does something perceived to be ‘rude’ by the officers involved.

Simon Burrowes is then taken to Phuket prison and locked up for three weeks.

Offending or threatening a government official is a serious offence in Thailand, with a penalty of up to a year’s jail time.

Adding to his woes, during these weeks of incarceration in the overcrowded jail he loses his job and his apartment back home.

After getting bailed out, Simon spends the rest of his time in Phuket sorting out his case, a total of three unplanned extra months on the island.

Simon (reluctantly) pleads guilty to the charge of offending an official, pays a 500-baht penalty, and flies back to the UK on a flight sponsored by an unnamed person sympathetic to his plight. 
Phuket airport immigration, where Simon's travel troubles started
Simon’s case reveals the hidden, dark side of travelling abroad. You pack your bags and ready yourself for new experiences but you also pack with you your expectations about the way things will go, your perceptions, your biases, your doubts and fears, your notions about the appropriate ways to communicate.

Then you come into a place where you are the alien, the guest, the one who doesn’t know the language or the way things work, the norms, the ‘proper’ reaction to situations.

For most who travel, these cultural interactions are a delight, a chance to learn and grow. But if things go wrong, it’s a powder keg.

Simon, for his part, admits that his lack of understanding about the local culture probably contributed to the escalation of his problems. He writes in an email, “While it has been since submitted to me that their reaction was an inclination toward Thai social behaviour, I was naive to that.” During his hours being held at the airport, he sees some of the officials giggling and joking amongst themselves. Simon’s reaction: “I was left feeling mocked.”

It just takes an instant, a gesture, a few words to ignite something that alters your life forever. For some travellers, such a moment of misunderstanding can be fatal.

Simon Burrowes escaped a serious charge and a lengthy jail term, but there’s little doubt that this incident will be a defining moment of his life.

I recently emailed Simon to ask about his reflections on the experience, and he replied: "I've learnt that for all the value we place on our lives, experiences, emotions, ambitions, etc, even as a Londoner I am always one degree away from being snuffed out by government bodies without reservation if I step out of line.

"Scarily, I learned 1st hand and unforgettably how the mind can be radically corrupted in a short space of time. On the day of my arrest I had just done the most intense period of training I've ever done. I was fit as a fiddle, healthy, philanthropic, confident and relaxed.  Three weeks later, on my last day before my bail, I confronted a prisoner with the intention of killing him.

"He'd only sniggered at me as I was subjected to a moment of bog standard frivolous Falang humiliation but I had come to a resigned decision: I was going to kill someone so that for all the years I was due to spend in prison I would at least have played a part in my demise. I would at least have a tangible reason for rotting in that hell through which I could I could understand, justify and own my future." 

Simon has travelled only once since returning from Phuket, to Paris on the Eurostar, a trip during which, he says, "I was actually scared enough to break into a cold sweat." And as for Thailand, he will never return.

He's since turned to writing for solace and self-expression. He says, "I've retreated into writing, producing a journalistic blog and three poetry manuscripts, the first of which is a book." One of Simon's poems, entitled written from my stinkin prison cell, appears on his blog.

Visit Phuketwan for the full story on Simon Burrowes and his Phuket ‘nightmare’.

Tsunami Remembered

Seven years ago Phuket was among a vast swathe of areas hit by the powerful tsunami that was unleashed by the earthquake off Sumatra, Indonesia. I was among the lucky ones, having been at home with my husband 2 kilometres inland when the waves hit just after 10am.
Kata Beach restaurants & shops, 1 day after the tsunami
The next day, after it was deemed safe to return to the coastline, we went out to a few beaches to check the damage. It was a shocking and surreal sight. Debris of all description strewn across the sand, buildings punched out by the incredible force of water that pushed against them, some well known and frequently visited shops and restaurants completely wiped out.
Nai Harn Beach, 1 day after the tsunami
Being 9 months pregnant, I didn't venture into the worst-hit beaches of Phuket or Phang Nga. Now, after hearing some of the harrowing stories of my friends who did go into the hell zones to assist, I’m regretful I was unable to offer hands-on help, but somewhat relieved I didn't see the worst of the carnage, to be frank.

The wreckage has long been cleared away but for some the images still linger and haunt.
Kata Beach
Reactions to this event varied widely. The strangest was seeing some tourists, obviously keen to continue on with their holidays, making their own little sunbathing areas on the sand at Kata Beach. Broken umbrellas speared into the sand, a few sun loungers scrounged up. There they were in their bathing suits, soaking up the rays of the brilliant sunny sky while all around them locals and other tourists were busy cleaning up the rubble.
Post-tsunami sunbathing
Sun-seeking tourists share the sands with tsunami wreckage, Kata Beach
One wonders what these tourists told their friends and family about their escape to paradise.

“Aside from those bothersome killer waves, we’re having a brilliant time! Sun, sand and (a little bit too much) sea!”

I don’t usually advocate violence, but on that day, there were certainly some people I would have loved to slap into consciousness.

Seven years later, Phuket has largely moved on, but one hopes those still suffering from the aftermath are finding renewed sources of strength and love in their journey.

Tourists and boatmen together drag a long-tail back to sea, Kata Beach

Mooing Mower

Mooing Mowing Service. Free Fertilizer.

(spotted in Bangtao, Phuket)


 
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